We had the distinct pleasure to interview award winning designer Joyce Li about their original and creative Transformative Fashion design work. Joyce Li is an award-winning fashion designer, that makes our world a better place with their original transformative fashion works.
Joyce Li ("JL") answered Design Interview ("DI") questions about their award-winning work Monologue Transformative Fashion. Interview questions prepared by Frank Scott.
JL : Monologue examines humanity's need to protect itself from our increasingly oppressive external environment. The collection explores transformable garments that allow the wearer to quickly self-isolate. Embedded within the construction of the garments are lightweight, expandable spaces that are easy to access when privacy and protection are desired. A dress that transforms into a sleeping bag, jackets with built-in face coverings, and tops that expand into tents are integrated into the collection in calming monochrome fabrics. Within the expanded spaces are washes of psychologically soothing imagery. Visible only to the wearer, printed silk images of a calming night sky or optimistic sunrise create an accessible escape for the wearer.
JL : Monologue maximizes the utilitarian function of clothing by providing portable safe spaces. Constructed using traditional tailoring techniques, each form also draws inspiration from engineering methods used in children’s pop-up books. Although it was not the initial impetus for this collection, Covid-19 has highlighted the importance of self-protection and distance. The turmoil we endured during quarantine has further contextualized the significance of isolation. In ways, we learn to distance ourselves from instability and chaos aroused by the pandemic and remain calm and optimistic towards the future.
JL : It took me an entire year, starting from the initial concept, to testing various fabric structures at a miniature scale, and eventually drafting patterns for full-scale garments. The process involved numerous stages of trial and error, from creating the final garment to preparing it for the photoshoot.
JL : The desire for serenity initiated the objective of Monologue - to temporarily withdraw our focuses from the overcrowded, saturated thoughts, in order to have a genuine conversation with ourselves. To find out what it is that we truly need and the goals to accomplish are the sole purposes of this temporary escape- an optimistic approach to regain control of our lives.
JL : The collection explores transformable garments that allow the wearer to quickly self-isolate. Embedded within the construction of the garments are lightweight, expandable spaces that are easy to access when privacy& protection are desired. A dress that transforms into a sleeping bag, jackets with built-in face coverings, and tops that expand into tents are integrated collection in calming monochrome fabrics. Within the expanded spaces are washes of psychologically soothing imagery.
JL : The collection explores transformable garments that allow the wearer to quickly self-isolate. Embedded within the construction of the garments are lightweight, expandable spaces that are easy to access when privacy& protection are desired. A dress that transforms into a sleeping bag, jackets with built-in face coverings, and tops that expand into tents are integrated collection in calming monochrome fabrics. Within the expanded spaces are washes of psychologically soothing imagery.
JL : To provide stability and structure to the pop-up silhouettes, each garment is provided with different under fabric structures. I produced neoprene with fusible, double-bonded silk-wool blend, cotton twill fused with horsehair and batting, and wool fused with horsehair. In addition, I painted the lining prints with Gouache and set the patterns to on repeat in Photoshop. The final patterns are printed on silk crepe and poly charmuese.
JL : The main challenge of this collection is to fully realize its concept and transformations in fabrics. How could I effectively set up a personal space by myself, and where could I hide it in my garments so these spaces are portable. Precise measurements and accurate patterns are keys to ensure the stability of structures as well as smooth expansion and concealing of the pop-ups spaces. In addition to the construction, material choices are just as crucial. For Monologue, all the materials applied are materials only used for garments constructions which makes the collection very wearable. Varying different functions, the rigidness may change, therefore fabrics for each design are specifically engineered to sustain the function. Through several trial and errors, I have designed a series of fabric and support for each look.
